Managing Waterhemp With A Devious Nature
April 4, 2008
As you think ahead a few weeks, and make your herbicide plans, you remember that nagging patch of waterhemp that just won’t go away. You have tried to control it (kill it) with a seemingly toxic shower of glyphosate, but the waterhemp just keeps growing. Read more
10 Simple Ways To Make Your Stable Safer
April 4, 2008
1. Roll up hoses. It’s all too easy to drag the hose out to water the horses, or run the hose to water the arena…then leave it there. It’s easy to step over. For the life of the hose (horse shoes and weight are hard on it!) as well as safety, have a place to roll it up out of the way. Do it every day! Pull the hose out, use it and put it up. This takes just minutes to do but makes things look nicer and is safer.
2. Pick up hay twine. Hay twine is durable stuff..and when it unexpectedly wraps around your feet you find out just how true that is! There are people who will take twine for crafts and twine can be handy for small projects around the barn, but those 2-3 strands per bale add up in a hurry! Have a small barrel or even a box - fold it in half twice, tie a loose knot and toss it in the barrel or box. This keeps the twine together, out of the floor. It doesn’t get accidently tossed into a horse’s stall, it doesn’t lay waiting to trip grooms and isn’t nearly the nuisance!
3. Sweep/rake aisle - it doesn’t matter if you have a 3 stall barn for a few horses, a competitive barn or a world class facility - the few minutes it takes to sweep, vaccum, rake the stall aisle leaves a good impression, keeps “stuff” from accumulating, is safer and keeps things neater. This can be done without large amounts of time. Do it after stalls are done then again last thing after feeding at night. A barn is an investment - protect it and take care of it.
4. Have trash can for garbage/papers. A plastic bag caught by the wind can put a western horse into airs above the ground moves. Have a solid trash can for garbage. If you want to burn papers have one for burnables, one for cans and one for trash - but have places to put trash and keep it off the ground, out of paddocks and out of sight of visitors.
5. Lock feed room. Even if you don’t have a paddlock - have a door with a snap, a chain, a simple gate - something you can close to keep horses *out* of the feed room. That $3 chain and snap can save you a $300 vet bill or, worse, losing a horse to colic or laminitis. Lock it every time you leave the barn. Accidents happen, horses get out. It’s a pain to catch a loose one but it’s worse to find one surrounded by open grain bins and have to guess how much they ate, how much is sprawled on the ground and how soon, or if, they’ll get sick.
6. Have equipment stored out of the way. Cleaning tools, saddles, grooming supplies…have a place to store equipment. Keep wheelbarrows, pitchforks and rakes out of the way. If you can have a small stall area to put them in or have a “closet” for them where they are out of the way yet accessible.
7. Store little hay/straw in barn. Keeping just a few days worth of hay in the barn limits fire risk and can save you on your insurance. Yes it means once a week or a couple times per month you need to go haul hay up…does building a barn and restocking it with horses take less time?
8. No smoking. Post it and mean it. It amazes me the people smoking in the barn, outside a hay stall, leaning on a “NO SMOKING” sign and saying “well I’m not IN the barn.” One ash on a pile of bedding can smolder and become a fire. Post it and mean it - NO smoking in or near the barn.
9. Keep dogs/pets under control. Unruly animals can be a source of stress for owner and horses. While most horses don’t get upset at a couple of dogs playing, when the dogs go after a cat they sense an entirely different scene. A squabble between animals can become dangerous if one runs under a horse, or into a horse’s stall. When devious dog, angry cat and terrified horse are in one area something has to give - usually it’s stall chains and/or the cat. Keep pets trained, under control and safe.
10. Use safe horse handling practices. Don’t be tempted to leave a horse tied with a twine string “just for a second” - see #9! Use good quality equipment, safe handling practices and have a good routine.
These things take just minutes per day to do, but add up to a much safer barn!
It doesn’t take money to have a neat barn. Sweeping the aisle, keeping a halter and rope on every door, having a door on the tackroom and the ability to close the barn up can help provide a safer workplace for people and horses. Photo courtesy Grey Horse Farm, IL
About the Author
Ron Petracek was raised in southern Idaho with horses and the great outdoors. With this continued passion He now shares through a a vast equine network. Learn more by clicking the links below. Amazing Equine Network System - Buy Sell or trade anything equine related. Get More Horse Classified coverage and distribution with less cost and work. Award Winning Horse Forum
Article Source: Content for Reprint
Horses And Dogs - What You Should Think About
April 4, 2008
Dogs and horses are common at stables - many who have one like all animals and have the other also. However, not all dogs like horses, and not all horses like dogs. Keeping the two co-existing can take training and, for some, may never happen.
Left to roam unchecked dogs can, and will, do incredible damage and even kill a horse. There have been cases of dogs jumping onto the neck of a horse as the horse wildly runs trying to escape his tormentor. Dogs can run in packs and chase horses through fences, and even take down and kill horses. Once a horse has had a bad experience, they may never fully trust a dog of any kind again.
On the other hand there’s other horses who will “hunt dogs” - and would kill a dog given the opportunity. With one the prey and one predator it’s amazing the modern animals can usually live in peace, but when things go wrong they really go wrong.
Other horses will tremble at the site of a dog. While some horses may never *like* dogs they should be trained enough to not panic and run from them. Sometimes simply facing the dog is enough intimidation, or riding towards the dog. Of course some horses are too afraid to walk forward and the dog will sense this. Still other horses simply wait for the dog to get in range and, rider or not, kick or strike. If you’re thinking of a stable dog consider carefully several factors.
Ideally if you’re bringing a dog home you’ll give much thought to the idea. While border collies, Australian Shepherds and Cattle Dogs are all found on many farms and stables it is VERY important that when you bring any herding dog home you devote time to training. Never let the dog chase the horses, even in play. Herding dogs have the instinct to move animals from one place to another - for safety of both horse and dog restrain that instinct!
Hounds have long been kept around horses. Typically bred to hunt, breeds like the Foxhound, Beagle or Coonhound are better around horses as they aren’t a threat. They still need training, but their instincts are more to go with the horses rather than chasing or cornering them. Their normally laid back temperament is normally welcomed by people and horses alike.
Another popular group with horse owners are the working dogs. Typically large dogs like Great Pyrenees, Anatolian Shepherds, Mastiffs or Kuvasz these dogs can be a security force around the barn and keep *other* dogs out of the horse area. They’ll also effectively dispatch coons and other critters that come in uninvited. However, because of the adult size it is ABSOLUTELY important that you set ground rules from puppyhood and mean it. A 30 pound Pyr puppy is cute when he comes up and jumps up…believe me the cute wears off when there’s a 120 pound dog splashing through the mud running straight towards you and company is due in five minutes.
Whatever the breed you get, expect to train them. Don’t let them get away with carrying off grooming supplies and other things from the barn. Keep their vaccinations up - for their own health, that of your horses as well as of visitors. Don’t allow your dog to roam the area. A dog that is supposed to protect the barn is useless if he’s 2 miles up the road visiting the neighbors. Remember too that you may know your dog won’t hurt livestock but in many areas a dog in with livestock, including horses, can be shot on sight.
The horses normally learn to relax when they get used to the dog being around. However, if strange horses are around, or when you’re seriously training the horse, keep the dog safely confined. You want the horse’s attention on *you* and what you’re doing, not watching his canine buddy romp in the yard outside the arena. A dog running up along the fence can startle even a horse that is used to dogs. For the safety of dog, horse and rider take sensible precautions.
Whether purebred or, like this Cattle Dog - Beagle cross, “mutts” make sure your farm/stable dog is properly trained and socialized around horses and the horses trained to not fear the dog.
About the Author
Ron Petracek was raised in southern Idaho with horses and the great outdoors. With this continued passion He now shares through a a vast equine network. Learn more by clicking the links below. Amazing Equine Network System - Horses for sale or trade anything equine related. Get More Horse Classified coverage and distribution with less cost and work. Award Winning Horse Forum
Article Source: Content for Reprint
Angus Cattle- Are They Right For You?
April 3, 2008
Angus cattle are solid black cattle. They are good natured in comparison to several breeds but are more aggressive than the breeds such as the Hereford. Angus Cattle are one of the most popular breeds in Australia. Read more
Pork, Pork, And More Pork.
April 2, 2008
Theres an old joke about the businessman who was losing money on every item he sold, but thought he could make it up on volume can be applied to the US pork industry. Last Friday’s Quarterly Hogs and Pigs Report indicated there were so many hogs around that money was being lost when they were sold. But there was a large volume on hand to sell. Read more
Wolverine Boots Quality American Footwear
April 1, 2008
Wolverine boots and shoes are among the finest to be found anywhere in the world, with advanced technologies that add unparalleled safety, durability, and especially comfort. Wolverine will handle the toughest days and keep coming back for more. Wolverine boots feature patented technologies for your safety and comfort. Read more
Mini-Digest: New transgenic pigs, Wendy’s bird burgers, sodas with gas
April 1, 2008
Sunflowers in the home garden and farm
March 31, 2008
Sunflowers are some of the most enjoyable and easiest flowers to grow. Sunflowers are the nature’s way of saying “thank you” to the sun. Sunflowers are great plants that almost seem to be smiling at everyone who passes. The best thing about sunflowers is they are not hard to grow, and you can easily have them in your own garden to make your house brighter and more attractive.
Sunflowers are annual flowers (meaning they have to be replanted each year) that usually have a large flower head on the end of a tall stalk. There is some varieties sunflowers ranging from tiny sunflowers only a couple feet tall to monstrosities over eight feet tall.
Sunflowers are technically classified as Helianthus annuus. They are a large plant and are grown throughout the world because of their relatively short growing season. Sunflowers are big eaters so plan on enriching their soil with a dressing of compost at least once during the summer. However, compost is more desirable than fertilizer since over-fertilization weakens sunflower stems. Sunflowers are normally harvested when the ‘petals’ (the outer flowers or ligules) have unfolded and are at least vertical.
Sunflowers are a good bee plant, as it provides hive bees with large quantities of wax and nectar. Sunflowers, when the stalks are dry, are as hard as most woods and therefore make an excellent fire; the ash obtained after burning is rich in potash. Sunflowers are planted after frost. If you are using seeds then water them regularly and keep the beds fairly moist until they start sprouting.
Sunflowers are a universally popular choice. They attract cardinals, woodpeckers, blue jays, goldfinches, purple finches, chickadees, titmice, and nuthatches. Sunflowers are native to North America, where they were known to native peoples more than 8,000 years ago. Archeological evidence suggests that sunflowers were cultivated and improved upon as early as 2300 B.C., possibly predating the farming of corn, beans, and squash. Sunflowers are native to North America, and were cultivated for food by native peoples for thousands of years before the arrival of European settlers. The seeds of sunflower are also a preferred food of birds and small mammals, so many people grow them to feed wildlife over the winter.
Sunflower varieties have steadily improved over time. Numerous options are now available, including dwarf types and specialty oil (high oleic) types. Sunflower varieties grown as crops have steadily improved with time. There are many varieties and hybrids available, including dwarf sunflowers with large seed heads and sunflowers that produce oil with unique saleable properties (such as a high percentage of oleic acid).
Dwarf sunflowers grown in hydroponic media accumulate cadmium both by binding it to the submersed root structures and by translocating it to the shoots and leaves. In previous studies with mature plants, we have shown that the partitioning between these two extremes can be strongly influenced by the presence of chelating agents in the aqueous phase. Dwarf sunflowers can be planted in a garden or in pots. Dwarf sunflowers grow 14-to 30-inches tall, perfect for children’s gardens or containers. The ‘Sundance Kid’ variety by Park’s Seed is a dwarf sunflower that features extremely free-flowering blossoms.
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Do You Really Think Soybeans Will Be More Profitable Than Corn This Year?
March 26, 2008
So you are going to plant more soybeans this year, you say? Half of your acreage? More than half? Mad at anhydrous ammonia prices and planting 100% soybeans? Booked beans for $13 and planning on retiring? Well, we’ll all find out next Monday morning when USDA releases its Prospective Plantings Report, and then it will be time to make adjustments if your intentions are different than what the market wants. Instead of gut feelings, have you penciled out the revenue returns? We have, and they may be different than what you think!
Your acreage decisions should be based on relative profitability of corn and soybeans say Gary Schnitkey and Darrel Good, University of Illinois agricultural economists, whose latest newsletter will make many Cornbelt farmers rethink any radical cropping decisions for 2008. Granted, Schnitkey and Good looked at Illinois farm returns, but their findings were consistent across all 9 crop reporting districts in Illinois and those will probably be representative of nearly all of the Cornbelt.
They found that corn income exceeded soybean income anywhere from $230 to $277 per acre. Schnitkey and Good used trendline yields and March 20 bids for beans and corn, which ranged from $4.70 to $4.90 for corn and $10.61 to $11.06 for soybeans. Yields throughout the study ranged from 132 to 173 bushels for corn and from 36 to 52 bushels for soybeans.
If you are questioning crop production costs, you will be interested to know that Schnitkey and Good created crop budgets for last fall and this spring, comparing crop income and rising production costs. Last fall, the non-land production costs were projected at $364 for corn and $215 for soybeans, which favors corn by $149. The numbers were recalculated this spring with anhydrous ammonia prices rising from $580 in the fall to $700 in the spring. The spring budget put non-land costs at $389 for corn and $227 for soybeans, which favors corn by $162.
Even with the increased nitrogen cost, soybeans are still less profitable than corn. Schnitkey and Good acknowledge that $700 may still be less than what farmers had to pay for a ton of anhydrous ammonia. However they say a $100 per ton increase will only increase per acre costs by $8.90, and that will not eliminate the advantage that corn has on crop returns per acre.
Schnitkey and Good calculate a 50/50 rotation to provide a $488 per acre average revenue. Increasing corn acreage to 2/3 provides a $498 per acre average revenue. And planting 100% corn provides a $520 per acre average revenue.
The economists also provided some qualifiers, and said the relative corn and bean price could change and that would impact the profitability projection. Any variance in yield will impact the revenue, and there will be some minor adjustments for yield drag on corn following corn. Additionally, pestilence is a risk that would need to be managed at some unknown cost.
Summary:
Even with expectations for high soybean prices and good revenue per acre, many Cornbelt farmers may find more profitability in corn than had been expected. Even with higher production costs, corn revenue substantially outdistanced soybean revenue in all sectors of Illinois, which indicates a reasonable cross section of the Cornbelt. Even with more soybean acres expected in 2008, conservative crop budgets and spring pricing opportunities many farmers may find corn to produce more revenue than anticipated.
Will Distillers’ Grains Become A Dynamic In The Livestock Industry?
March 25, 2008
